Grampians National Park Camp Victoria

Sunday 24 – Sunday 31 March 2019

Photos by Ainslie, Donna, Erika, Heather, Karen, Mary, Philip, Stewart and Tom

28 Batemans Bay Bushwalkers spent the week from Sunday 24 March to Saturday 30 March camped at the Big4NRMA Halls Gap Caravan Park for 5 days of walking in the Grampians National Park, Victoria led by Karen & Donna.

The weather turned unpredictable, leaving just a 4 day walking window between the hot and dry conditions and the cold, wet windy conditions with light hail and snow in the high country.

Day 1 – Monday

Dawned wet and very windy, so a hasty change of plans saw some of the group walk about 9km on a good bush track following Fyans Creek from the campsite to the National Parks Visitors Centre in Halls Gap and return.  Followed by dinner in the Halls Gap Tavern, which surprisingly, was fully booked on a Monday night.

Day 2 – Tuesday

Cool, clear and sunny.  2 walks offered.

Walk 1 :  4.2 km return to The Pinnacle from Wonderland Carpark.  The Pinnacle is the most popular walk and lookout in the Park.  Avoid weekends and school holidays.

Ainslie writes . . . . . Wonderland in the Grampians had us full of wonder at the jumble of high rocks, but also wondering how we’d make it up yet more steps. Through the spectacular Grand Canyon with its sheer sandstone walls,  then an even narrower cleft called Silent Street,  and we were at The Pinnacle after a climb of 280 meters in 2.2 kms.

An international crowd less than half our age was admiring the view over Lake Bellfield and the brown fields of Halls Gap valley. One little French lass was 21 times younger than Val and Betty! Our group of ten was ably led by Bev Brazel; on a walk we graded easy/medium,  but the Wonderland Walks brochure grades Medium/Hard. Wonder why.

Walk 2 :  8.4 km return Pinnacle Circuit from Halls Gap.  We split into 2 groups to make the numbers more manageable and walked the loop in opposite directions.  The group who walked the loop clockwise appreciated getting the many long series of steps out of the way first while fresh.

Day 3 – Wednesday

Cool, clear and sunny.  3 walks offered.

Walk 1 :  4.2 km return to Sundial Peak from Sundial Carpark, followed by 1.4 km return to Silverband Falls.

Ainslie writes . . . . . Ten of us led by Stewart went on an easy walk to Sundial Peak. After a smooth track we got to the top across rocks. We admired the excellent view of Lake Bellfield.  Sundial Peak is so named because it is the first peak to get the morning sun. To commemorate this there is a well constructed sundial made by students in 1968.

We then drove to see Silverband Falls, reduced to a trickle, where we had lunch.

Walks 2 & 3 :  To Mt Rosea, and once again the group split in half to make numbers more manageable.  One group walked 9 km from Rosea Carpark to the summit and returned by the same route.  The second group walked from Rosea Carpark to the summit and returned on a loop track – about 12 km.

The loop track has been recently realigned.  Follow the signs from the carpark to Rosea summit.  Then follow the signs towards Borough Huts.  Then take the signposted track to follow old management trails back to Rosea Carpark.

Both are gorgeous walks through a variety of landscapes and rock formations with extensive 360 deg views from the summit.

Both groups visited the barely flowing Silverband Falls on the way back to camp.

Note:  The Sundial Peak Loop shown in old publications no longer exists.  Parts of the return track have been washed out and not repaired.

Dinner that night was at the Halls Gap Hotel, about 1 km from camp on the Stawell Road.

Day 4 – Thursday

Cool, clear and sunny.  3 walks offered.

Walk 1 :  Zumsteins Historic Walk, MacKenzie Falls upper lookouts, The Balconies – about 7 km in total.

Diddy writes . . . . . . Five of us set off in one car at 9.30am with Mike as the driver and leader for the day. First stop after 20 kms or so on the narrow winding road was Zumsteins historic holiday resort of the 1920’s or so featuring old pise huts, hand dug swimming pool and a beautiful stroll through the bush block.

Next onto MacKenzie Falls where there were 2 lookouts. Broken Falls lookout and MacKenzie Falls lookout, both had spectacular views. After a lunch break in the shade we drove to have a brief view of Lake Wartook. Then onto Reeds Lookout and then a walk to the Balconies with expansive views to Lake Belfield and the Serra Range to Mount Abrupt to the far South. Last stop for the day was along the Mount Difficult road to Boroka Lookout overlooking Halls Gap village and East to the Pyrenees Range and the new wind farm. We returned to the caravan park by 4pm. A good day was had by all.

Walk 2 :  5.5 km return loop to Chatauqua Peak via Bullaces Glen.  On the return leg we also walked the 2.3 km Venus Baths Loop.

Beautiful and varied walk starting in town.  Good groomed track and some stairs up the hill with a short side track to Clematis Falls, which would be lovely when falling. Short, easy rock scramble to reach the summit.  Excellent views over Halls Gap and the campsite.  Descent goes via Bullaces Glen and another dry waterfall and cascades.  Lovely ferny spot in more seasonal weather.  The side track loop to Venus Baths is through a rocky gorge and leads to a string of swimming holes gouged in a sandstone rock bed.  The creek was still flowing despite the drought.

Followed by a drive to Zumsteins for lunch and a stroll through the historic ruins.  Followed by MacKenzie Falls where about half the group descended the 260 odd steps to the base of the Falls.  The Falls are permanent and flow from Lake Wartook, the level of which is controlled by dams further upstream, ensuring there is always plenty of water coming over the Falls.  We also walked the 2km return track out to the Gorge Lookout.  Very popular spot – avoid weekends and school holidays.

Followed by a visit to Reeds Lookout.

Walk 3 : To the Northern Grampians to walk the Mt Staplyton Amphitheatre, a 6.6 km return challenging hike found in the book Daywalks Around Victoria by Glenn Tempest, published in 2011.  On checking with 2 National Park Rangers to ensure the walk was still possible, we started from Hollow Mountain Carpark,  and ascended Hollow Mountain.  The published walk then continues across a trackless rocky ridge to the summit of Mt Staplyton.  This ridge is where our walkers turned back, because the rock climbing was deemed too dangerous to continue.

Instead they returned to the cars, drove the short distance to the Mt Zero Carpark, and followed the 5.6 km return track to the summit of Mt Staplyton.  The whole day amounted to about an 8 km walk through some fantastic rock formations to achieve more amazing views.

Day 5 – Friday

Cold, windy and possibly rain.

Another change of plans due to the weather.  A group drove to the Mt William Carpark and walked 3.6 km return up the steep bitumen road to the summit of Mt William. This is the highest peak in the Grampians and there are views at every turn.  At the top a squall came through, so we beat a hasty retreat back to the cars.  Yesterday’s walkers who had not yet visited MacKenzie Falls and the Lookouts on Mt Victory Road set out to explore the area.  Fortunately the weather improved and they were able to descend to the bottom of the Falls and walk part of the Gorge beside the McKenzie River and also take the track to the Balconies from Reeds Lookout.

The remainder of the group toured the area around Halls Gap, some visiting Stawell and Ararat, and some stopping off at Red Rock Olives and the James McMurtrie Glass Blowing Studio near Pomonal.

Day 6 – Saturday

Another cold, windy and possibly damp day.  We abandoned plans to climb Mt Abrupt and divided into 2 groups.

Walk 1 :  2.5 km return climb of the Picaninny Hill overlooking Dunkeld.  Followed by a walk around Dunkeld Arboretum and Dunkeld Village.

Walk 2 : 7 km return climb of Mt Sturgeon, also overlooking the little village of Dunkeld at the southern end of the National Park.  This group also visited the village and arboretum.

Karen.

Maloneys Beach – Murramarang National Park

Sunday 7 April 2019

Photo by Karen

A lovely autumn day for a pleasant Murramarang National Park walk. There were twelve of us, ten members and two visitors, the bush was lovely and fresh after the rain and there was a variety of fungus to be seen both on old trees (these have the common name of Curry Punk due to their colour) as well as others not so vibrant raising their heads through the undergrowth. Flowers were scarce but the Pittosporum revolutum with its amazing golden yellow seed pods were on show.

Amazing views along the coast and west to mountains and the colour of the sea and the golden sands on the north side of Bay was enticing. A visit to the Canoe Tree another highlight of this walk and the welcoming committee of the local kangaroo & wallaby population as we returned to our cars was overwhelming. We finished our walk with lunch at Maloneys Beach – all agreed it had been a great walk.

Karen

Kioloa to Bawley Point

Wednesday 27 March 2019

Photos by Brian

With many walkers away at the Grampians Camp only a small group of five walkers, including our leader, Brian, headed off early to Kioloa boat ramp for the walk north to Bawley Point Reserve.

The weather was perfect and the tide low, so the sand was a very comfortable walkway. After morning tea at Bull Pup Beach we diverged from the original plan and rock-hopped around Murramarang Point Aboriginal Area before continuing along Murramarang Beach and on to Gannet Beach where we stopped for a quick dip. A short walk through the streets and across the rocks brought us to Bawley Beach and lunch under the trees in the park before heading home.

Wild life sightings were few: a pod of dolphins, some lizards, the usual kangaroos and two local paddle boarders ridng the wavelets at Cat and Kitten Beach.  The walk was beautiful, and a good morning was enjoyed by us all.

Chris  

North Head to Oaky Beach, Murramarang NP

Sunday 24 March 2019

Photos by Helen and Brian

Despite waking up to rain and dark clouds, nine walkers risked meeting up for the planned walk and were rewarded with dry, albeit humid weather for a lovely 8.5km walk in Murramarang National Park.

Brian stepped in at short notice to lead us from North Head and we enjoyed the view from the lookout, walked through old spotted gums and burrawangs to Honeysuckle Bay and on to Oaky Beach before returning on the dirt roads. A native wasp nest was found on the way along with a few interesting plants and the spotted gums were looking good after recent rain.

As always, Murramarang does not disappoint.

Helen

Bingie and Coila Wallk

Thursday 21 March 2019

Photos by Ainslie and Karen

14 hikers set out from Bingi Headland on a 6km Easy walk to Coila lake. The walk started on the Dreaming Track in a light sprinkle and then sunshine which was pleasant walking conditions albeit in ‘Brisbane-like’ humidity.

The Dreaming Track heads south between the dunes that were extensively mined for sand before the Eurobodalla National Park was established. We passed through swamp mahogany and forest red gum vegetation before emerging onto the shore of Coila Lake for morning tea.

Looking down the lake towards Tuross we saw a few people who appeared to be camping on the shore. This small group turned into 17 when the Dalmeny-Narooma hiking club emerged from the forest onto the shoreline. They were doing a scheduled hike of the Dreaming Track in the opposite direction to us. After exchanging hellos they headed north to Bingi and we headed along the shore line of Coila Lake to Rob’s property at the northern end of the lake.

Rain started again just as we climbed onto the house deck and everyone enjoyed a restful and dry lunch.

Rob

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Packwalk: Jagungal Wilderness, Kosciusko National Park

Monday 11 – Thursday 14 March 2019

Photos by Ian, Wendy and Mary

The Jagungal Wilderness is a large 66,300 hectare slab of Kosciusko National Park between Guthega, the Tooma Road and the Eucumbene River valley.  It straddles part of the Great Dividing Range and has a prominent peak, Mt Jagungal, which at 2,061 metres asl is the 7th highest in Australia.  Jagungal was declared wilderness in 1992.

The topography is undulating to hilly with typical Australian alpine and sub alpine vegetation.  It is the open snow grass “plains” and broad valleys with snow gum capped ridges which is the big attraction to bushwalkers.  Six club members – Bronwyn, Simon, Rudy, Wendy, Mary and Ian went to have a four day look.

Starting on the eastern side near Cesjacks Hut, and in a broad anticlockwise oval circuit around Mt Jagungal, we followed Doubtful Creek to Grey Mare Fire Trail (which is also part of the Australian Alps Walking Track), and returned via the Strumbo Range and McAlister Saddle.  This is a distance of approximately 35 kilometres, about half of it on fire trail and we were walking in the 1600-1800 metres asl elevation range.  We camped in the open, ignoring the few huts which were en route or within distance.

South of Mt Jagungal, the open plains and low hills, interrupted by small outcrops of granite boulders, were a delight to walk and offered endless views. We often stopped to soak it in but, interestingly, it was almost monotonous. After a while, even the very occasional minimal remains of an old grazing fence or a dray track became a point of interest.  In the absence of any other significant topographical features (apart from Mt Jagungal which always loomed in the background), it also meant that, to remain on an intended path, forensic map and compass navigation was required.

At McAlister Saddle we were very close to that significant location where the catchments of the three major river systems of the Australian Alps meet – the Murray, Murrumbidgee and Snowy Rivers.  We had to remind ourselves there is nowhere else on the planet and we felt privileged to be there.

It was pleasing to see quite a bit of insect activity, particularly grasshoppers and, thankfully, nothing that also wanted a piece of us, such as the dreaded March flies.  One particularly colourful large grasshopper deserved a close look.  We saw a White Lipped Snake (Drysdalia coronoides) and the much larger Highland Copperhead Snake (Australeps ramsayi), lots of evidence of crustaceans on the boggy flats, and the remains of a Bush Rat (Rattus fuscipes).  Birdlife was a bit sparse but an occasional Scarlet Robin among the Snow Gums provided a splash of colour.

There was evidence of extensive feral pig diggings on the eastern side, though not much of it was recent.  The only evidence of brumbies was one pile of horse dung, again on the eastern side.

In contrast, we saw no one else and, apart from the Grey Mare Fire Trail, two huts, a meteorological station, a campfire site, and the afternoon jet trails of the Sydney/Melbourne commuters, no other evidence of recent human activity. But, this area, like much of the alpine areas, was grazed until 1958 and bits of fencing wire remain in some places.

Off the fire trail, walking was distinctly slower, always potentially ankle rolling and requiring good leg strength. Despite their appearance, the snow grass plains are rarely an even surface.  Constantly adjusting each foothold during the walking took its toll and a few of us developed foot issues, particularly heel blisters.

To add some spice to the walking, in some areas, particularly away from cold air drainage and frost hollows, a waist to shoulder high heathy scrub considerably slowed progress as we had to push and pick our way through it.  The heath appears to have proliferated since the 2003 high intensity fires which razed the entire area.

Despite a slower than planned progress, this walk was successful.  It was a taster to see what Jagungal Wilderness had to offer.  We enjoyed it very much and we will go back, particularly to sample areas to the south.

Ian 

Sugarloaf Creek to Valerie’s Spa Pools

Wednesday 13 March 2019

Photos by Donna

Nine walkers set out midweek to walk up a very low Sugarloaf Creek, to visit the Spa Pools.  This is an unusual phenomenon where a waterfall cascades into remarkably shaped stone bowls to create the appearance of giant natural spa pools, and this was the case in past years.  Lack of rain had 2 effects.

Although a worthy ambition, it led us to unexpected difficulties, including the usual slips, trips and falls, and difficult slopes.  We found that, although our records indicated the distance to be about 5 km to the target, it was 6.5 km of hard going to the given grid reference.  Another interesting aspect was that map inaccuracies in conflict with GPS readings led us to feel we were in the wrong tributary, so we began to doubt our information, but our explorations found no other likely stream.

By that time most of us were unable to find the energy to search further up the tributary for the elusive pools, not that it mattered much as there was only a dribble of water.  We opted to bail out and take an escape route up to Misty Mountain Road.  There was no escape from the hard going, as it was steep and tough, loose and difficult.

Thanks to the good humoured, cooperative and determined attitude of the team of walkers accompanying me, we made it back to the cars, albeit tired and sore from our exertions and the very long day.

Bob

 

Pinkwood & Treefern walk, Monga National Park

Sunday 10 March 2019

Photos by Ainslie

In Monga National Park are remnants of Gondwana Land Pinkwood (or Plumwood) trees, one of three species of Eucryphia (also found in Tasmania and Chile). In Penance Grove the Pinkwoods were dropping their large  white blossoms on to the tree ferns and giant mosses below, until it looked like snow. Many tree ferns were cut down in the past for sale in Sydney, killing those tree ferns, hence the name Penance Grove. From there we walked back for lunch and then down on the Waratah Track to the Mongarlow River.

Ainslie

Potato Point Forest, Lake & Beach

Thursday 7 March 2019

Photos by Erika and Mary

24 walkers turned out on a cool autumn day for a 10km circuit to Lake Tarourga and Jemisons Point.  The first section was a hilly path through the forest.  Usually it’s fairly boggy in the bottom of the gullies, but at the moment it’s bone dry.  Lake Tarourga has also receded, although there’s still plenty of birdlife on the water.

We had lunch on the rocks at the base on Jemisons Point enjoying the view south along Brou Beach to Dalmeny, Gulaga and Montague Island.  Then we climbed to the top of the headland to see the view north to Potato Point and Tuross.

Karen