15-16 November 2022
Photos supplied and complied by Ian
West of Nowra, at the junction of the Shoalhaven and Kangaroo Rivers is the Tallowa Dam wall. It forms the large water storage known as Lake Yarrunga which fills a significant part of the Shoalhaven Gorge.
This drowned, sandstone gorge is arguably the most spectacular flat water paddle on freshwater in NSW and among the best of Australia. It is surrounded by Morton National Park and is part of the Ettrema Wilderness Area. Bush camping is allowed on a number of sandy benches 15 kilometres upstream where the Shoalhaven River meets the lake.
It is 8 years since the Club visited Tallowa and on this occasion four members paddled and camped overnight. For the two days we had the place to ourselves.
Launching from the dam wall on the first day, and turning left (the Shoalhaven arm) we soon noticed two features – coffee coloured water indicating flood waters from upstream, and the ferocity of the 2019-20 bushfires which burnt to water level and even some trees out on the pondage!. The regrowth, as we have seen elsewhere on the south coast, is prolific.
The scenery is dominated by high clifflines with interesting outcrops and steep slopes into the water. At Hoddles Bluff the rock runs almost continuous from top to water level, about 300 metres. After recent rains a couple of waterfalls were still contributing to the lake. When we weren’t paddling we were ogling the rock formations above, a good way to get a stiff neck.
Although the weather was otherwise excellent, occasionally we encountered a southwesterly breeze down the gorge which had us hugging the bank for protection. In doing so we surprised many water dragons sunning themselves on the rocks.
By mid afternoon as the gorge narrowed and we were almost at our destination we thought we were imagining a current against us. It soon became apparent we were not wrong. The Shoalhaven River was obviously in mini flood and the strength of the river emptying into the lake was too much for us to paddle further.
As we sat in an eddy behind a large boulder contemplating our options, Lin spied a red bellied black snake ferry gliding across the river toward us. Both parties were simultaneously surprised and the snake immediately “rafted up” and floated off downstream. After giving the visitor a respectful few minutes to clear off we did the same and soon were able to select the next very comfortable camp site, a high sandy bench with a good covering of grass and an old campfire – perfect!.
Next day, the return journey was assisted by the same southwesterly, but this time as a tailwind, so we were often able to simply drift, soak up some sunshine and admire the lovely scenery. To our surprise we were back to the cars in half the time.
After a quick inspection of the dam spillway and the mini flood coursing downstream, we headed for the nearest coffee shop before returning home.
It was a very delightful two day paddle camp, always to be recommended.
Ian